With the arrival of May and the green shoots of spring all around us, jewelry buyers’ thoughts inevitably turn to emeralds. Fresh, verdant and the birthstone of this most welcome of months, emeralds represent hope, peace, growth, nature and new beginnings: all of which are needed more than ever this year, as we slowly emerge from the pandemic and a hard locked-down winter.

One of the “big three” coloured gemstones – alongside rubies and sapphires – emeralds are twenty times more rare than colourless diamonds, and have always been iconic. They even have their own cut named after them – the “emerald cut”, a square shape with stepped facets that is one of the most popular shapes for engagement rings.

Emeralds have been prized through the ages, for their opulent appearance and glowing green hue and for their talismanic properties. First discovered deep within the earth some 5,000 years ago, they have long been associated with an almost otherworldly ability to heal: they are credited with everything from easing the pain of childbirth to foretelling the future (when placed under the tongue, apparently), and curing snakebites!

Romans believed emeralds could revitalise the soul; Indian Mughal emperors thought their greenness represented paradise; Moses and the early Christians saw them as representing the resurrection of Christ; and Cleopatra presented them to subjects as good luck tokens. More recently, they have been a status symbol for famous and aristocratic members of society, from Queen Victoria, whose emerald and diamond tiara from Prince Albert was a cherished possession, to Elizabeth Taylor, who was gifted them by Richard Burton. And they are still a most popular and glamorous choice for celebrities walking the red carpets today.  Daniel Nyfeler of Gübelin Gem Lab explains the historical allure of these vibrant green gems: “To hold an emerald in your hand, knowing that it has witnessed millions, even billions, of years of history on our planet is thrilling.”

-By Amy Linnen