Nothing says “Christmas” more than December in Austria: the sights, smells and sounds of the festive season are unrivaled. During advent [the four weeks leading up to Christmas], thousands of visitors flock to Austrian cities in search of music, culture, crafts, keepsakes, cuisine, and the famous mulled wine, including our contributing editor Kim Hopkins, who shares her recent fabulous family holiday in this NEW KDHamptons Travel Diary below:

 

 

 

 

Kim shares: Though it was hard to say goodbye to perfect weather in my home base of Abu Dhabi, I wanted my five-year-old son, Brady [above], to experience his first cold and cultural Christmas. We spent six days in Salzburg, and 10 in the capital of Vienna [psst! look out for Kim’s upcoming Vienna diary], known for its opera, theater, fine arts, and famous musicians. Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss I & II were born in Vienna, and Mozart spent most of his life in Salzburg.

 

 

We chose both locations to get the big-city feel of the capital with its gorgeous museums and opera houses [don’t miss the Staatsoper], amazing restaurants, and shopping; and then Salzburg for its stunning countryside and mountain views and, of course, the Sound of Music tour.

 

 

 

 

This past December, the weather was very mild, no snow while we were there, but plenty in the mountains [pre-Alps] of Salzburg. The typical weather during the month is about 39 F with seven inches of snow.

 

 

 

 

Our first stop was Salzburg. With 150,000 residents, Salzburg is the fourth biggest, and arguably the most beautiful Austrian city. Salzburg means “salt castle”, in reference to its huge hilltop fortress, the Hohensalzburg castle, and the white gold from the mountains in the South. The town is a perfect size to be explored by foot and there is a funicular that takes visitors up to the castle. During summer months, the Salzburg classical music festival attracts tourists from around the world. Salzburg’s famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, lived in the city, and his two homes should be a quick stop on anyone’s itinerary. With the release of the much-loved musical “The Sound of Music” in the 1960’s, Salzburg caught the eye of Americans [who saw it first on television], and then the world at large.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We chose to stay at Hotel Sacher, famous for its Sacher torte, a rich chocolate dessert that is even served at breakfast. Though much too sweet for me [sorry Sacher!], people come from all over to taste the torte while overlooking the beautiful Danube river. From the historical rooms, mountain and river views, and location, the Sacher checks all of the boxes. Their concierge service is excellent and dinner recommendations were spot-on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My favorite restaurant from the trip is Barenwirt, a traditional Salzburger Wirtshaus, and only a short walk along the river from the Sacher hotel. The historic “Bear” dates back to 1663, and serves authentic Bavarian food along with steak, amazing breaded chicken and Wiener Schnitzel, and the best desserts in Salzburg. Casual atmosphere with five-star food. [Mulllner Hauptstrasse 8, Salzburg. +43 662422404]

 

 

 

 

We also enjoyed K+K Restaurant, located in Old Town, close to Mozart Square, which is a charming four-story townhouse dating back to the Middle Ages. Austrian and International cuisine is served, with delicious steak and fish specialties. [Waagplatz 2, Salzburg +43 662842156 www.kkhotels.com]

 

 

 

 

For the traditional beer hall experience, the famous Augustiner Braustubl brewery dates back to the 1600’s. Half-owned by Benedictine monks, their home brew comes from barrels, and is served in traditional ceramic Steins. Located in several huge halls, as well as an outdoor garden that seats hundreds. Food and snacks are served at small outlets along the corridors. [Lindhofstrasse 7, Salzburg +43 662 431246]

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas markets are all over Salzburg, big and small, all with something different to offer. Salzburger Christkindlmarkt am Domplatz is the most famous Christmas Market, dates back to the 15th century, and is located in Old Town, in the square of the Dom [the Baroque cathedral] and the Residenz Palace [formerly a bishops’ palace, now an art gallery]. Shop for crafts, handmade toys and ornaments, candles, clothing and all-things-Christmas, while choirs and musicians play holiday music. The smell of roasted almonds, chestnuts, mulled wine [“Glühwein”] and glogg [“Punsch”], as well as the creative, handmade wooden market stalls make for a magical holiday setting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Austrians love their sweets, from the warm apple strudel [Apfelstrudel], to cakes, chocolates, souffles and my favorite, the Kaiserschmarrn, a savory pancake made from a sweet batter using flour, eggs, sugar, salt, and milk, baked in butter. Chefs add nuts, cherries, plums, apple jam, small pieces of apple, or caramelized rum-soaked raisins and slivered almonds, based on their personal style. In the Christmas markets, it is served warm and “chopped up” with a mini wooden fork. Yum!

 

 

 

 

 

The Mirabell Gardens pictured above & below.

 

 

 

 

[above] Scloss Hellbrunn, a palatial baroque castle in the southern part of Salzburg. Built in the early 17th century, it is famous for its trick fountains, and for having no bedrooms.

 

 

Salzburg’s most famous landmark, Hohensalzburg Fortress, sits high above the city, with unrivaled views of the city, the Salzach River, and the snow-capped mountains. Reached by a short funicular ride, the 900-year-old castle is said to be the biggest and best-preserved in Europe. The Golden Hall, where elaborate banquets were once held, boasts a golden ceiling designed to look like a star-lit sky. The small Marionette Museum is also included in the ticket price, and is a fun stop inside the castle walls. Items from Mozart’s Magic Flute as well as the Sound of Music are displayed, and children can try their hand at their own marionette show.

 

 

 

Brady gets in on the fun at the Marionette Museum [above] and the breathtaking St. Michael Basilica in Mondsee, where Maria and the Captain got married in the Sound of Music [below].

 

 

 

For most Americans, no visit to Salzburg is complete without the Sound of Music Tour. Yes, it’s a bit cheesy, and yes, you will be on a tour bus [the horror!], but the beauty of the city sites and the breathtaking mountain/lake region is worth it. The tour guide is hilarious, leading sing-a-longs to the musical’s classics, while pointing out interesting facts and historical landmarks. The tour includes the famous Mirabell Gardens, where the children sang Do-Re-Me; the Leopoldskron Palace, filming location for the von Trapp family home; Hellbrunn Gazebo, where Liesl and Rolf romanced; and St. Michael Basilica in Mondsee, where Maria and the Captain got married. [www.panoramatours.com]